Finkus Bripp looks terrified and is securing his camera equipment. I am driving. “Last night you were talking about gently rolling vineyards, lush forests, and the leisurely pace of life in Mittelburgenland – the land of Blaufränkisch,” he says. “Why are we driving so fast?” We are trying to keep up with Clemens Reisner, one of the young new winemaking stars of the region. He is driving the Hans Igler Estate delivery van and we are following him to the Sonnengolf resort for a round of golf and an interview.
After warming up a bit on the driving range, Clemens and I stroll towards the first of 9 holes to tee off. A warm, dry breeze sweeps gently over the course and I note that it is coming in from the east. Clemens is able to adjust his swing accordingly. I am not a skilled golfer. “Climates that are good for vines are always climates where people feel comfortable, too. Our humidity and temperatures are regulated somewhat by Lake Neusiedl to the north, but we have less danger of Botrytis and birds than the regions closer to the lake! We are protected here by the Ödenburger Mountains to the north, Günser Mountains in the south, and the hills of the Bucklige Welt to the west. Our climate is warmer and drier here than in northern Burgenland and it is more strongly influenced by the warm Pannonian air masses reaching in from Hungary to the east.”
The entire province of Burgenland belonged to Hungary until 1921 when it was annexed to Austria post WW I. This area is a melting pot of Magyar, Slavic and Austrian cultures. Many of the towns have two names, one Croatian or Hungarian and the other name Austrian. Although the region escaped communism, it did not really begin to economically recover from the two World Wars until the 1980s. “After the wine scandal of 1986, Austria’s wine export completely collapsed. My grandfather, Hannes Igler, and other vintners in the area saw it as a chance to successfully market wines that were more authentic to their region. Mittelburgenland is predestined for red wine, but the fashion before the wine scandal was for off-dry and semi-sweet white wines.”
Hannes Igler truly was one of the doyens of the region. He was well-travelled in the great red wine regions of the world and admired Bordeaux greatly. Although he was one of the first in Austria to plant international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and to mature his wines in small new oak barrels. The success of the Igler “Volcano”, a blend of Blaufränkisch with international varieties, put Mittelburgenland on the map as an emerging red wine region in the 1990s. Other vintners in the region like Weninger and Gsellmann soon joined him in the same league. Initially it was the internationally styled blends that enjoyed favoured preference from domestic critics and consumers. Luckily the vintners of Mittelburgenland were convinced of the potential of their Blaufränkisch and didn’t grub it up in favour of more fashionable varieties.
Now past the fifth hole and confidently playing quite a good game, Clemens expresses a little criticism for his region. “We weren’t completely immune to the fashions of the time, though. By the end of the 1990s and the beginning of this millennium, Mittelburgenland vintners were often leaving their grapes to hang much too long and the wines often displayed over-ripe, rather jammy fruit and unfortunately often too much volatile acidity. To make matters worse, many exhibited a heavy and clumsy hand with oak.”
It was indeed an awkward time, but this time it was not just the leading wineries of the region that spurred change. After Austria joined the EU, the region qualified for subsidies for modernization of vinification facilities and rationalization of vineyards. The two major cooperatives in Burgenland were also under excellent management with highly qualified winemakers. The cooperatives implemented viticultural improvements, rigorous yield restrictions and replanting of vineyards to varieties more suited to the climate and soil. 55% of the vineyard area is now planted to Blaufränkisch. The two Mittelburgenland cooperatives, Winzerkeller Neckenmarkt and Vereinte Winzer Blaufränkischland have joined the ranks of wine producers in the region that produce consistently good quality. Regional pride grew and as wines became increasingly authentic they were applauded by the international press.
Clemens concentrates deeply at the tee for the 9th hole. The air is still. He swings smooth and true and the ball sails. It lands on the green just a little over one and a half metres from the hole. Clemens smiles broadly and we continue our conversation as we walk towards the green. “I think the turning point is well demonstrated by the establishment of the Mittelburgenland DAC in 2005. It was clear to everybody on the Interprofessional Regional Committee that Blaufränkisch was not only the most suitable variety for our climate and soil. By that time we had also tracked two decades of single-vineyard examples of Blaufränkisch not only in Mittelburgenland, but throughout the province. The variety’s ability to express a unique terroir is well-proven and this point of difference is our way into the future.”
The loam and clay soils of Mittelburgenland are cool and have the capacity to store just enough water and moisture for the vines in long dry summers. Evening temperatures drop thanks to the surrounding forests ensuring that good acid structure is retained. Mittelburgenland Classic DAC is 100% Blaufränkisch, 100% from Mittelburgenland that has been matured in stainless steel or used barrels and casks that do not impart new oak flavours. Mittelburgenland Reserve DAC is also 100% Blaufränkisch from Burgenland, but may be matured in new oak if the vintner desires. The Classic may have up to 13% vol. alcohol while 13% is the minimum for the Reserve. After passing quality inspection for Qualitätswein aus Österreich (quality wine from Austria), both styles must also pass a tasting commission to determine that they fit the desired sensory profile.
Clemens putts his ball straight into the hole. The 9th hole with only two strokes – I’m impressed! To celebrate our good game and a fun video shoot, we go to the region’s most reputed restaurant, Horvath. The restaurant is a modernized interpretation of a classic Austrian Gasthaus. We are hungry, so order the 4-course gourmet lunch. Clemens leads us through a tasting of typical wines from the region. Although Blaufränkisch is the main variety and the only variety allowed for the (DAC) appellation wines, Mittelburgenland can boast impressive diversity. Dry white wines from Welschriesling and Chardonnay are followed by Zweigelt, St. Laurent, Pinot Noir, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.
When asked about tourism in the region, Clemens says, “Well, it is not has heavily trafficked as the areas near Lake Neusiedl, of course. It is quieter here – night life is pretty quiet and I think that is what our visitors seek. There are plenty of athletic opportunities here from hiking, walking, and biking to golf. Mittelburgenland is also appreciated for its thermal waters and we have several excellent spas, like at Sonnengolf today. The spa hotels are superb and all of them have well-stocked selections of wines from Mittelburgenland!”
As we get into the car to depart for our next adventure, Finkus definitely appears less tense than in the early morning. He says, “Do you ever notice how wines and people reflect their surroundings? Mittelburgenland is open-hearted and approachable, but man do those wines have good concentration and persistence!”