With a growing number of accolades at home and abroad, the Türk winery in Stratzing near Krems, Austria is no longer an insider’s secret.
Margit and Franz Türk cultivate 15 estate hectares of vineyard on the slopes of Krems Valley. 70% of the Türk vineyard area is planted to Grüner Veltliner. The Grüner Veltliner series includes the whole gamut of style from light-bodied and racy to full-bodied, powerful and complex. In some years, Türk is also able to produce a small amount of Grüner Veltliner as an ice wine or even a trockenbeerenauslese. These are always stunning and I like to pack little 0.375 liter bottles of these uniquely Austrian sweet wine specialties in my luggage as gifts when I travel abroad.
In the 2012 vintage, Türk produced a couple sweet wine specialties from Gelber Muskateller (Muscat Blanc à petits grains), but Riesling is actually the second most important variety at this estate.
The following wines were sent to me by the vintner to taste. They were not tasted blind.
- NV Weingut Türk Grüner Veltliner Eiswein– Austria, Niederösterreich, Kremstal (8/1/2013)Türk blended two tiny harvests of frozen Grüner Veltliner grapes – one from February 2012 and the second 10 months later in December 2012 – for this ice wine. Brilliant straw yellow. A multi-facetted bouquet exhibits crystalized papaya and mango, cardamom, crushed black pepper and tobacco. The luscious sweetness is brilliantly balanced by racy, citrusy acid and a sturdy 12.7% alcohol. This wine will continue to gain in complexity for decades. (96 points)
- 2012 Weingut Türk Gelber Muskateller Eiswein– Austria, Niederösterreich, Kremstal (8/1/2013)Pale yellow. Intense fragrance of orange blossom, litchi, gooseberry and fresh muscat grapes. Zingy, vibrant acid cuts like a knife though luxurious sweetness and viscous texture, pushing abundant fruit and floral flavours to the fore. Still a bit “Kitschig” – definitely give this a decade and you’ll be rewarded with much more complexity and all the components will have married. (94 points)
- 2012 Weingut Türk Grüner Veltliner Frechau– Austria, Niederösterreich, Kremstal (8/1/2013)Pale straw yellow. Peach, marsh mallow, yellow currant and tobacco comprise an inviting bouquet and continue on the palate. Full-bodied with mellifluous fruit wrapped around a firm, bright spine of acid. The finish is long and creamy with plenty of spice and a touch of stone fruit and apple blossom. (93 points)
- 2012 Weingut Türk Grüner Veltliner Thurnerberg– Austria, Niederösterreich, Kremstal (8/1/2013)Pale green-yellow. The restrained bouquet opens beautifully with aeration: white pepper, pineapple and green apple with notes of dill and celery in the background. A firm chiseled structure disguises the power and muscle of this wine. Precision and focus continue all the way through the long steely finish. No need to hurry; this will improve with bottle maturation. (93 points)
- 2012 Weingut Türk Riesling Kremser Wachtberg– Austria, Niederösterreich, Kremstal (8/1/2013)Pale green-yellow. Intense apricot, peach and litchi with a touch of blossom honey on the nose and in the mouth. Juicy acid highlights the fruit and keeps this powerful wine agile and precisely focused. Citrus joins the abundant stone fruit on the long finish. (93 points)
- 2012 Weingut Türk Grüner Veltliner Kremser Sandgrube– Austria, Niederösterreich, Kremstal (8/1/2013)Pale straw yellow. Intense aroma and flavours of fresh tobacco leaves, a touch of mango, meadow herbs and cardamom. Full-bodied and creamy textured, but with a firm spine of acid. Exotic fruit and spice linger on the finish. (92 points)
- 2012 Weingut Türk Grüner Veltliner vom Urgestein– Austria, Niederösterreich, Kremstal (8/1/2013)Pale yellow. Apricot and grapefruit zest on the nose and in the mouth. Medium light-bodied, crisp and vivacious. Refreshing and elegant pairs well with delicate fish dishes with fresh herbs. (89 points)
- 2012 Türk Riesling Weinzierlberg– Austria, Niederösterreich, Kremstal (8/1/2013)Pale green-yellow. White vineyard peach and apple blossom. Medium-light bodied, crisp, bright, and refreshing. Juicy, fruity finish. (88 points)
- 2012 Weingut Türk Gelber Muskateller Beerenauslese– Austria, Niederösterreich, Kremstal (8/1/2013)Pale yellow. Seductive fragrance of blossom honey, nutmeg, muscat grapes and elderflower. Sweet, but not overly so and nicely balanced with 8% acid and 12.4% alcohol. Orange concentrate joins the other flavours on the finish. This is quite a culinary wine that offers plenty of food pairing opportunities. Great to drink now, but will hold easily for another ten years. (88 points)
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